Grow with hormones

Hello, I’m going to grow indoors again, but this time I’m going to try a method widely used in global agriculture, which is hormone treatment at key phases of plant development such as auxins, cytokinins, and gibberellins.

With this, I intend to experiment, using global agronomic knowledge of biostimulants, in order to improve the quantity, quality, and production of flowers, in addition to controlling growth and development in all its aspects.

I studied the subject for a few weeks, and I believe I now have all the necessary knowledge to experiment. If any of you have done this before, or are interested in helping me or practicing it and sharing knowledge, I would appreciate it.

For now, I have several clear concepts to put into practice:

  1. Hormones control the cellular growth of plants in various ways.

  2. It is key to learn to control the dosage and exact moments when each one will be applied to avoid undesired effects.

  3. By controlling the quantities and moments of application, we can shape everything from height, the creation of new shoots, the reduction of spacing between shoots, the plant’s sugar processing, etc.

  4. Incorrect application usually generates contrary effects.

  5. There are other techniques like girdling, which I will also experiment with.

  6. Cytokinins promote cell division.

  7. Gibberellins promote cell elongation.

  8. Controlled imbalances.

That said, according to what I understood from my studies, we would do the following:

To germinate, we will use auxins (from lentils) or hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide).

Which promotes cell elongation and division in the roots for rapid development.

With the first leaves,

We will maintain auxins in the waterings with biological root propagators (in my case, deep underground by topcrow), so that there is no lack of boron (which controls possible undesired hormonal disorders due to potential auxin excess).

From day 28 to day 42 will be the vegetative growth phase. During this very important period, where the plant will develop its final size, I will use cytokinins+auxins, since a greater number of cytokinins than auxins breaks apical growth (height) and favors the appearance of shoots and reduces the space between nodes, which will generate an increase in the number of lateral branches and therefore flowers.

Upon reaching day 42, the first flowers begin to appear. It is then that we will begin to apply cytokinins and gibberellins, as one increases cell division and the other cell elongation, theoretically making flowers longer, wider, and more compact, in addition to favoring sugar processing for the flower.

Next, we will switch from growth fertilizers to flowering fertilizers, which provide more phosphorus and potassium.

Here, I will try performing the famous girdling on one of the plants, on 50%-70% of the branches, leaving some so that the roots do not die. With girdling, we achieve that the food produced in the leaves stops reaching the roots (that’s why we leave some ungirdled), but the food supply will continue to rise from the roots to the flowers, as these ascend through the inner part of the stem.

That’s right, the leaves feed the roots through the bark, while the roots feed the plant through the inner part of the trunk.

These are natural techniques, used in agriculture for mass food production; everything is natural, the plant is simply tricked into prioritizing some processes over others.

What do you say? Has anyone else tried something like this before?

Does anyone want to collaborate or help me?

All help and advice is welcome.

5 Likes

First, welcome to the community.

Second, that sounds like an interesting experiment, but more complicated than I want to deal with myself. The current nute schedule I use is complicated enough for this old codger. :grin:

Good luck, keep us updated on your results.

6 Likes

Welcome to the community! I’m excited to see how it goes for you and what results you get. For me the older I get the less hands on I like to be, so this wouldn’t be something I do. I do however love learning new things and seeing them applied. Who knows maybe your results will make me want to try it out.

6 Likes

The only part of this that I have ever looked into is the soak with hydrogen peroxide during the germination stage, I only use a 1% solution but I feel that it has increased my germination rate since I started doing it this way rather than soaking in plain water.

4 Likes

First of all, welcome, I already had experience with gibberellic acid. Depending on the concentration, it can also be used for germination; I once read that it’s probably also used in agriculture. However, I used it to genetically manipulate a shoot of my plant to develop male flowers. This way, it could self-pollinate and produce feminized seeds.

The whole thing sounds very interesting. It would be nice if you would cultivate a plant of the same strain in the regular way alongside it so that one can clearly see the difference. A Growlog would also be interesting to be able to follow the whole thing.

3 Likes

Thanks a lot for the welcome.
Yes, I will keep records of everything so you can help me, and it also serves as info for others.

4 Likes

Thanks again for the welcome :slight_smile: .
Don’t worry, lol, I hope the results encourage you and give you new motivations to experiment, little by little I will be informing you about the process.

3 Likes

hello, thanks for commenting, that’s right, I also used 3% hydrogen peroxide (hydrogen peroxide, for those unfamiliar with this term) and it certainly yields results. I believe it advances germination by 1 to 3 days, based on my experience. I also tried using lentil rooting hormone in several ways, using only the root tip, using the root and green apices (where gibberellins are supposedly concentrated, which cause apical dominance and cell elongation).

I have it in 3 versions: liquid, crushed and cold-strained, and the ones that matter most to me, dried (like dried fruit, at 40ºC in the oven and crushed), which leaves me with rooting powder. My idea is to try all 3 versions: the liquid (blended), powder from just the root

and powder from roots and apices, because it’s true they have auxins, but they also have gibberellins in the apices, and also to see if they retain good properties in powder form because it’s easier to store, and it can be mixed with the substrate where you germinate them as powder.
I find it very interesting :p.
I do all this as a hobby; I like it, it entertains me, and it’s fun.

2 Likes

thanks for the welcome :).
wow, it’s great that others have used them before. I knew about the possibility of creating hermaphrodites, I hope you succeeded. They are the same hormones used for cell elongation (an example are oval grapes that come without seeds), the world of plant hormones is incredible; by applying one or another at certain moments, we achieve wonders.
And yes, in fact, I’m doing tests and taking notes on everything; I’m not just doing it and observing, I’ll have quite good control over the results. I also want to use controls, surely 2 controls would be ideal, but I’m not entirely sure I have enough seeds for everything I’d like. Additionally, one of the big problems I have, which I wouldn’t want to have, is the selection of genetics; I’ll have to use the ones I have, not the ones I’d like :stuck_out_tongue: for example, I’d like them to be with XXL seeds, and I don’t have any. It would be interesting to make them dwarf plants that maintain XXL production, but I don’t have any XXL. Another thing I’d like is for some varieties to be among those that branch out the most laterally, and to see the effects of cytokinins on them.
But anyway, little by little I’ll be testing, experimenting, and sharing what I can.

I haven’t germinated the auto seeds yet; I’m in the phase of testing homemade germinators and root stimulators with ornamental plant and legume seeds. Let’s say I’m in phase 1: obtaining auxins and gibberellins and their properties as germination accelerators and rooting agents.
If you notice, I use 2 controls in each experiment (only water), and then the products I make, as liquid versions, and if there are differences in using only the lentil root, the lentil apex, and if the powder versions maintain their properties, in addition, if the powder versions are only effective when mixed into the substrate.
In 1 week, I will start germinating the auto seeds and will share the results obtained with images in a new thread.
The controls I will use for the auto seeds will not receive any hormonal treatment; perhaps if I get good results or data, some seed bank might want to collaborate and we can test it on different varieties.

Here you can see 2 controls, h. peroxide, root stimulator from root only, and on the other hand, root stimulator from root + green apices; same conditions for all, 20 seeds in each one. After all, without controls, we cannot verify the veracity of the results.

2 Likes

These 3 plants are from feminized seeds that I produced myself.

The picture is from the beginning of the year

1 Like

This is incredible, what a great result, did you keep a Growlog? I would like to see the procedure you used

3 Likes
4 Likes

Here I have manipulated a plant with Gibberellic Acid and Colloidal Silver Water to produce seeds

1 Like

Not sure how I feel about adding hormones into cannabis. Seems like a cool experiment though and will follow along to see it. I just personally wouldn’t smoke it with added hormones. I’d also admit I just don’t know enough about it.

2 Likes

So friend, you should stop smoking, because all plants have hormones :slight_smile:

I think you are confused and you should get informed.

1 Like

small update and small changes.
**the varieties will ultimately be automatic feminized “gorilla fast version”, “skunk” and “mamba negra” none are from seed banks, all in bulk.
\*\*the LED light is kept at 45w for growth but I will use “ICEKO 240W” for flowering.

**day 18/11 germination began by submerging the seeds in water for 24 hrs. 19/11 the seeds are placed in moist cotton and in an airtight plastic container on top of the internet modem to maintain a good temperature, at least 1 seed was already opening (in less than 24 hrs, it seems to have a lot of vitality, I don’t remember which one it is, but it’s labeled so I’ll comment on it in the future)
** tomorrow 20/11 I will transfer them to their first pot (small cups painted black as mini greenhouses) where I will keep them for 3 to 10 days, as soon as they have their first leaves I will transfer them to the definitive 11l pots, but after germinating I want them to be directly under the same substrate so I use the same for everything from germination so as not to stress the plant
** the rooting experiment seems to be successful in both the liquid version and the powder version (dried and ground), undoubtedly the lentil rooting agent works without a doubt. we remember that we have 3 small pots with substrate, with 4 lentil seeds each, and then I added only water to one, liquid lentil rooting agent, and powdered lentil rooting agent, the results leave no doubt:

as can be seen, the control (water only) did not show any of the 4 seeds yet, while the powdered lentil rooting agent showed 2 out of 4 seeds, and the liquid rooting agent showed 4 out of 4 seeds, all had the same substrate, the same amount of water, and the same number of seeds, all were placed inside the closed cabinet with the LED lights, so all had the same temperature and humidity.
I won’t throw them away yet, I will wait about 48 more hours to see the result of how the roots have developed.
**I have an experiment underway with a plant germinated 15 days ago, as soon as its first two leaves fully appeared, being barely 4 cm, almost freshly germinated… I made a small, very fine, vertical scratch from the base of the stem almost up to the cotyledons (false leaves) then I gave it a foliar spray with the liquid rooting agent, and covered the plant with substrate up to the cotyledons (false leaves)
it didn’t affect it at all, it didn’t get stressed enough to reduce growth luckily, what I don’t know is if it served as a healing agent or to help the plant grow new roots faster, I will check it when I remove a little soil, but I will wait until it is a bit more robust.

2 Likes