Week 2-3 of 12/12.
How’s it looking and what should I do next?
Using foxfarm nutrients schedule also.
Just want to make sure these make it to the end, from my research they should be hairy by now and aren’t?? Just a few pistols at each node.
Also…
roughly 65degrees at night and 75-80 during light on.
Humidity around 40%
Soil - Happy Frog
300W LED about 18in from top of plant. just moved it up recently.
It’s hard to tell. What is your setup like? Seems you have some uneven reflective material in your grow area, tent, etc. This can cause hot spots from areas hotter that one another. This can cause uneven growth and even burn of damage the plant. What temps are you running? This is another big factor
Temperature is about 78-82 degrees F. It’s drinking more and I think showing signs of where the buds will be/are?? Just didn’t know if it’s bad to trim off the big leaves or do they need to stay on to absorb energy/c02/nutrients etc…
Thanks a lot!
Just keep up what you are already doing. Only a few pistols is fine, they will only increase from this point. Just make sure they have intense light for best results. Overall looks good. Just think you will have a reward that will keep you coming back for more and more…lol good luck
Can I get some feedback on mine as well? This is also my first time and put my girl into flower mode about a 8 days ago. Everyone’s plants look so nice and groomed while mine looks like bed head or a bushy bush…. Do I need to trim/defoliate/top?
She seems to be drinking more water or it’s just evaporating faster… is a gallon every 2-3 days enough or should I increase her dosage?
I was also wondering if it’s best to water less but more frequently or a lot but less frequently?
Thank you guys!
It would be beneficial to do a light defoliation. It’s not always the best idea to defol during flower but opinions differ greatly. I do it all the time with no effect on final product. Just thinning out some of the fan leaves will let more light to budsites. Again try to get your reflective surfaces smooth with not to many wrinkles to avoid hotspots. One small wrinkle in mylar can cause a major burn on any part of the plant.
It’s almost impossible to get the Mylar flat without uninstalling everything. I don’t see any bright spots either. I did however move my
Old light closer… do you see a problem with that?
Hey @Billybob & @Austingreenest , yeah man, I agree 100%. I do a proper “pre-flower” defoliation + lollipop from the bottom upwards. (pushes the hormones towards the tops resulting in denser buds) This also helps prevent Powdery Mildew, Mould & Pests Prevention. Better airflow through stems.
After the “Pre-Flip” defoliation comes "what I like to call ‘Selective Defoliation’ during early - mid flower where I’d only remove fan leaves that are blocking primary bud sites only. Sometimes i’ll just tuck them away!!
@Austingreenest I would remove those side panels IMMEDIATELY {Canopy Penetration is wrong in my opinion. You’ve got a big enough light source 
The tent panels on the side are adequate for reflecting photons adequately.
Topping + LST + HST & trellis are to get that even, bushy canopy..
Other than that you’re getting there!! Well done, keep up the FIYA!
@Billybob @Ratch33
So I painted the floor, walls and ceiling with super bright white titanium paint. Dunno if this helps regulated temp & humidity, but apparently this white flat paint reflects more than Mylar… do not know how or agree really but W/E… just started my second grow with purple ghost candy and white widow. Seems they are stretching bc of heat too high or light not close enough/bright enough…? Will be a learning experience unless you know the optimum temp & humidity inside the dome, when to remove dome, and the temp & humidity in the room after it has no dome…?
Any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated!!
@Billybob Help! I am going to try to flush and adjust ph today of the soil/roots…or do you think it’s the lights or something else?
It was doing so well last week haha
@NohoHank, where are the affected leaves? Are they only showing on top, or can you see the brown scorched leaves on older growth?
If they apear affected only at topsites it’s possible Heat Stress from your light being too close ( leaf temp rises = high VPD = Stomata closes = No CO2 absorbsion..
Mine started doing the same thing but canoeing more and tips/sides were getting the burn look. But it was right before I chopped her down.
Got about 10-12 OZ’s of bud from the plant. More than I thought I’d get!
I painted my walls, floor and ceiling with ultra white titanium paint. Waiting on White 2.0 to arrive. Apparently more reflective than Mylar even though I held a piece of both up around my plant and only saw reflection with the Mylar panels.
Looks like heat stress.
I agree @Billybob
Hey man, white paint is highly reflective. About 80% - 98.1% of light, and deflects heat well. 
[ keep room cooler ]. Those side panels are increasing the Leaf Vapor Pressure Deficit [LVPD] : In other words the surface temperature of the leaf is too hot = Moist around the leaves vaporise too fast due to higher temps.
@Ratch33 if those side Mylar panels are creating difficulty for my leaves to get moisture then why do tents and such have the same, just not angled. And a couple fellow peeps on here said to flood it with light. Like use 2 or even three lights….?
Thanks man.
Waiting for white 2.0 to come in!
And I just got the temp and humidity back in check. Had to open up some walls for ductwork.
See any issues with these 3 photos and one auto?
Whats up Mr Austin!
I’m not saying what you’re doing is wrong. I’m just voicing my opinion to help you make your own “Judgment” Everyone develops their own style & methods. I can only advise based on my experience & theoretical knowledge.
Here’s my 2 cents -
Tent Structure - Photosynthetically Photons reflect at a different gradient in a Tent. They don’t penetrate the lower leaves with such intense energy/heat.
Your leaf temps should be 2,8C cooler than the room temps.
When increasing LVPD (Leaf vapour pressure deficit on the lower leaves will cause the plant to close it’s stomata to prevent de-hydration. Thus your immediate leaf surface will be too dry due to a lack of respiration! This also prevents the plant from up taking CO2 which it needs for photosynthesis.
Note: The hotter the air temperature gets, the SVP goes up which means the moisture is being vaporised at a faster rate.. The leaf needs to be a little cooler in order to hold more moisture.
Hope it does help.. Good luck dude
How many fans? Only the 1 mounted on the wall?
Yes. It moved the plant (previous first grow) before I harvested, but should be enough, no? I also have an A/C unit that blows almost as much air just cooler.
@Ratch33
Makes sense! Thank you for your knowledge and time!!
