The “error” part of “trial and error” is often how I learn best. lol
“Wisdom comes from experience. Experience is often a result of lack of wisdom.” - Sir Terry Pratchett
Status Check (Post-watering Day):
A visual inspection was carried out after environmental stabilization. It was confirmed that the plants show no signs of light stress (no burns or curved edges) or over-fertilization. The foliar color is optimal, reflecting efficient assimilation of the 800-900 ppm load applied yesterday.
Operational Adjustments:
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Lighting: The efficiency of the current setup was validated (40 cm distance from the panel to the top of the structure, 50% intensity).
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Technical Monitoring: PPFD measurement confirmed at 570 \mu mol/m^2/s, an ideal value for the current stage.
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Structure Management: Trellising was adjusted on the repaired branch to provide greater support; it was decided to keep the foliar mass intact to maximize photosynthetic capacity.
Good evening everyone …with a lot of pain and fear, I did the last pruning and lollipoppig on the girls, almost finishing the stretch …Wish me luck !!! hahaha hugs
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Lookin pretty damn great to me!!
Good evening, thank you very much … I hope it turns out well … we’ll know soon … hugs
Wow, that looks awesome 
Good Grow
This will be a great grow
Thank you …I hope so !!! we work and study hard so that every day it turns out better …hug ..
Conclusions so far I leave as a reminder or help !!! about my experience at this point …I clarify this is my first grow.
Summary of Cultivation Criteria: Water Management, Salts, and Run-Off Measurement
1. The Problem with Rigid Feeding Charts
- Manufacturer’s inflexibility: Blindly following fixed weekly fertilizer doses (like the Green House Feeding chart) ignores the reality of the actual environment (temperature, radiation, humidity, and transpiration).
- Accumulation and saturation: The constant input of nutrients without checking the plant’s response creates a progressive buildup of salts in the substrate. This triggers a nutrient lockout or root damage due to osmotic stress.
2. The Real Importance: Output (Run-Off) vs. Input Measurements
- Input is just a reference: What is fed to the pot does not reflect what the plant is consuming or the actual state of the root zone.
- Run-off as a true diagnosis:
- Output EC higher than Input EC: Signal of saturation and salt accumulation in the substrate. Indicates that it is necessary to alternate with plain water waterings or dose reductions to flush the medium and restore balance.
- Output EC lower than Input EC: The plant is demanding and assimilating more food than is available in the substrate, allowing you to maintain or adjust the nutrient load.
- pH Monitoring: An off-target pH in the runoff warns of variations in the medium’s acidity that lock out the absorption of key elements, regardless of the administered dose.
3. Watering Management and Root Health
- Slow watering and even distribution: Fast watering creates preferential channels where water directly escapes without wetting the entire root ball, leaving dry areas with high salt concentration. Slow watering guarantees uniform hydration of the entire root mass.
- Microbiology protection: Applications of beneficial agents (such as Trichoderma) depend directly on soil health; extreme EC spikes or constant water saturation significantly reduce their effectiveness.
- Adjustments by stage (Outdoor Flowering): During flowering, transpiration varies according to weather conditions. On hot days, plants absorb water at a faster rate than nutrients, which accelerates the risk of substrate salinization if runoff is not monitored.
4. Golden Rule for the Log
"You don’t fertilize the pot based on what the label says, you fertilize according to the response and output values provided by the substrate."
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You figured out what took me two years 
. In my opinion, fertilizing according to the manufacturer’s chart is always too much. As far as I know, the charts usually apply to larger plants.
And automatics are far more sensitive to fluctuations, and they simply lack the time to recover.
Often, 30% of the recommended amount is enough.
Since the beginning of the year, I’ve been feeding mineral nutrients purely based on EC value and sometimes only use barely 40% of the manufacturer’s recommendation. If I poured in the full dosage, my EC would be over 3.5-4. That’s the death blow for the lady.
In my experience, watering practices are the biggest risk for deficiencies and lockouts.
I see in the pictures that you measure PPFD.
However, PPFD only measures the current light intensity hitting the plant.
DLI indicates how much light the plant receives throughout the day.
How’s it going, Andy! I 100% agree with what you’re saying about the dosages. Guiding myself purely by the EC reading and keeping the nutrition at 30-40% of what the charts indicate changed my grow; the roots breathe better and you forget about lockouts.
Regarding DLI and PPFD, you’re absolutely right. In my case, the panel has the capacity to reach 1100 PPFD, but we know that above 900-1000 is throwing photons in the trash without supplementing CO₂ (something unfeasible in my setup because constant extraction would take all the gas outside).
That’s why I aim for the “Emerson Effect” by adding a Far-Red bar (740nm). The literature and tests show that supplementing with far-red increases the photosynthetic rate by up to 30% in combination with PAR light, allowing me to squeeze out that extra yield I’d look for with CO₂, but in a passive, efficient way and without messing with the ventilation.
I used the temporary PPFD peak specifically to add warmth to the environment due to the cold wave. Being on 12/12, the daily accumulated DLI remains spot on within assimilating margins, with the canopy locked in at 24 °C.
Thanks for the input, it’s a pleasure having a technical debate! 
I’m not the strongest communicator either when it comes to discussions. I just want to share my experiences and hope to help out with any misconceptions
Well… I don’t have the additional red light. I’m currently still running my first setup from two years ago. But this year I’m upgrading from 250 to 500 watts and getting a larger tent.
My Granita from Perfect Tree (33 Splitter x Jet A) is on flowering day 17 today and was just defoliated… standing tall. Starting next week, she’ll get Green Sensation for 10-12 days, followed by Atami Bloombastic for the next 10 days for maximum PK intake. Since the flip, the EC has been steadily increased from 0.9 to 1.8-2.0 in weeks 5-6.
Let’s see how she handles it.
After Granita, 90 Proof from Compound Genetics is planned next.
Good evening, leaving some new pictures here .. it was time for watering and I think it looks acceptable ..
To remove runoff cleanly and quickly without ending up booking an appointment with a physical therapist, an active extraction system was implemented using a suction pump connected to flexible silicone hoses. One hose is fixed at the lowest point of the saucer to vacuum up the drainage as it comes out, while the other discharges the liquid directly into a measuring jug, saving the lower back and dignity of any grower with a bad back who is no longer up for bending over or juggling heavy pots. This method avoids moving the plant in full bloom, prevents salt reabsorption through capillary action, and allows precise measurement of the final volume, output pH, and EC… greetings to everyone ..
Very cool idea I must say 
@BunkerAriel
And in general, it’s looking really good for you. Crazy how thick the branches are 
@Andy_420 looking awesome for you too
Good Grow
Hey, I think it’s more likely that the manufacturer specs are set so high because they generally assume a starting water EC value of 0.0 - 0.2.
However, tap water already comes out with an EC of 0.5 - 0.6.
If you use the specified dosage on top of that, it gets too harsh for the little plants.
But it’s great to be able to gather good info on this.
Greetings in the early morning