Hey guys just joined the community and wanted to say what up. I’m going to be starting a bad ass strain soon called back to the future #2 by taste budz. Up to 33% thc. I’m going to use a Rdwc 4 site set up I. A mars hydro tent with 2000tws LED. And doing a scrog net which this strain is supposed to be good for. So we will see what happens and I’ll post the journey. Does anyone have any good hydro nutes they recommend for reverse osmosis set up. I’ve grown plenty of organic soil and what not but first time stepping it up so any advice is cool. Also im looking at water chillers and many people say the smaller aquarium chillers 110v are fine but I worry bc it will be I. A shed out side and it get hot in the summer coming up so I don’t know if I need to factor that In or just the amount of water, bc a 4 site plus res may have 3-4 gallons max in a 5gal bucket system so that’s 15-24 max gallons and even less when the roots star taking up space so I don’t know if I need to spend a shit load on a chiller….?
Very interesting 
I wanna see what will done your strain. Don’t forgot to share your growlog 
Welcome!
@BigCountry is knowledgeable about RDWC systems. I’ll forward this to his expertise 
How can I message him I need help with best nutes with out buying shit I don’t need. I am getting greatwhite bc it’s my name so I gotta have it and good for roots and shit but I got questions
Click on his name!
I would recommend speaking to @DeAzNuTz, I’m using his feeding schedule now & I don’t want to share without consent.
Wow that is a lot of stuff! Is there really a huge difference with all those additives in @DeAzNuTz feeding schedule compared to just using Fox Farm trio and calmag until harvest?
Are you switching from CoCo to Hydroponic?
@Great_white You can’t go wrong with 100% organic company that’s been a top organic company in Europe for over 10 years. Just make sure you check the production date on the bottles by deciphering the barcode stamp and then add 2 years which gives you your expiration date because they have a 2-year shelf life.
Here’s how to decipher Biobizz nutrients 
Here’s my feeding schedule but that’s with supplementing CO2 and intense light so if you’re NOT doing that then you’ll want to dial it down a little. Just check your PPM after adding/mixing all nutrients and keep them at optimum level. The PPM and pH started in my feeding schedule is without adding CO2, that’s just a standard amount you should shoot for
pH level that’s on there is what’s recommended for Biobizz Light-Mix soil by Biobizz.
Thanks for letting me know about my feeding schedule. If anyone else asks, you can share it with them I don’t mind
If you’re supplementing with CO2 and maximizing your light intensity then you’ll need to add 20 to 30% more nutrients and I push my ladies and this is what I find has been the best performance for me but you don’t have to get as many boosters you can just go with their main stuff BioGrow, BioBloom, CalMag and you’re done but you won’t get as dense nugs, as strong stems to hold those big nugs, etc… I also top my plans heavily and I defoliate them three times which also helps them Bush out more which requires in more nutrients to push them that far. So it’s really depending on your setup and how much you want out of your plants.
Are you following a VPD chart? If not, you really should look into it and start dialing in your grow room to maintain a proper VPD vapor pressure deficit level which will help your plants stay at optimal level which is directly responsible for the amount of nutrients/water it uptakes and you can control how much she drinks by providing a specific VPD level. This is what professional growers use to keep their garden at optimal level.
@DeAzNuTz Thanks for your response. This is my first grow and I’m in week 4 of veg. Planning to supplement with Co2 as I flip to flower. Also planning to get a bigger tent 5x5 as an upgrade to my 3x3. Have 4 plants in the tent. Planning to upgrade my light to Mars Hydro TS 3000 450w since that is the best light I can afford. And I was going to use Fox Farm trio and calmag and hope for the best. Biobizz seems a little more expensive. I like the idea of growing totally organic, maybe next grow I could give that a try. I was just wondering if the results are really that much different with all those boosters you use in your feeding schedule. If the diff is night and day I could justify it. Really cool how in depth your technique is man. I got into this thinking give it water and light, get weed haha. I don’t know what a VPD chart is. I’ll have to look into that
Yeah it really makes a world of difference. Otherwise i wouldn’t spend my time and money and energy adding all these nutes and figuring out the best proportions, etc…
That light you’re getting will work but as normal performance, that will not provide an intense amount of light so you don’t need to get sealed too because it won’t work. For CO2 to work you need to combine all three things which are intense light, high temperatures between 80 and 86° F, and 20 yo 30% more nutrients and the only then your plans will benefit of providing you with 20 to 40% higher yields.
If you’re trying to stay organic and you want to save money then I highly highly recommend going to www.kelp4less.com get their:
- Grow Pack (for veg. It’s a mixture of different nutrients in one package for ready feeding)
- Bloom Pack (for flowering)
They both come with dry CalMag do you don’t need to buy extra CalMag. Trust me you’ll get very good results and you only need to add one part nutrients with one part Cal mag and you’re done. Wait until you see the results and you’ll be blown away for the fraction of the price the results will get are outstanding. I actually use them for my cloning and experimental mother plants not to waste my biobizz nutrients on them. The reason I use them is because I used to use them throughout the whole cycle until I started using Biobizz. I also used to use Roots Organic company which is also very good but it’s more expensive than kelp4less.
Also i forgot to add something extremely important… You’ve probably heard to check your pH after mixing nutes and also after watering you want to collect the runoff of every grow pot to measure PPM to know how much they have used and how much came back out to adjust your feeding for next watering and also to check for pH. The important part is to NEVER check your runoff for pH because it’s horribly inaccurate! I have killed a few plants because I was measuring the runoff pH which was showing me 7.8 - 7.6 - 8.0 meanwhile my pH was at 6.0 - 6.1 and i was trying to lower pH when i didn’t need to and killed my plants. When i invested in blue lab soil pH pen for $185 on Amazon i immediately checked the soil in my other pots and that’s when I realized my pH was at 6.0 but the runoff was showing close to 8.0 which is a huge difference and extremely inaccurate. After doing some more research and talk to a couple pros they all said to never go by runoff pH because it’s horribly inaccurate. Your best bet is to get a blue lab pen but if that’s too steep then you can get one from NukeHeads site for $60 and it’s also great, just don’t last long. Usually around 1 year (that’s what the website says that accuracy lasts about 1 year)
Yes, Ignore the run-off PH… Just use a soil PH probe to measure (Top, Middle & Bottom) PH levels of the substrate.
*If the PH value is reading subsequently lower at the bottom of the substrate, it will become a issue later on. When feeding the pots, one should always “slow feed” the nutrient solution. If you dump your liquid feed to fast, it’ll wash most of the manure & elements to the bottom of the medium causing PH lockout…
#That’s why I always say, @DeAzNuTz the “Grow” itself is ones best teacher. Look at the beneficial aspect thereof - You gain knowledge & experience which nobody can ever take away from you… That’s #Old_School_Toking right there!
I’m doing hydro I spent a lot of money before on advance nutrients and it was a waste of money so I just got “general hydroponics” they’re powdered nutrients it’s not separate A and B but I got that I got GRWAT WHITE for my roots and I got PURPINATOR which is hard to get A lot of places don’t wanna mail it to the US and I got a CAL MAG AND SUPER THRIVE I JUST DONT HAVE A BLOOM BOOSTER AND IM MAKING MY OWN CO2 exhaler
What is vpd is that for Rdwc?
Hey buddy,
Regarding Hydroponics - @DeAzNuTz & @NicoZ should be your go to guys. I do not have extensive experience with Hydro. If you ever switch to organic substrates, i’ll be able to assist… I only cultivate using CoCo mix…
I do not want to be the murderer of them girls, lol
Vapour-pressure deficit
Vapour-pressure deficit, or VPD, is the difference (deficit) between the amount of moisture in the air and how much moisture the air can hold when it is saturated. Once air becomes saturated, water will condense out to form clouds, dew or films of water over leaves. It is this last instance that makes VPD important for greenhouse regulation. If a film of water forms on a plant leaf, it becomes far more susceptible to rot. On the other hand, as the VPD increases, the plant needs to draw more water from its roots. In the case of cuttings, the plant may dry out and die. For this reason the ideal range for VPD in a greenhouse is from 0.45 kPa to 1.25 kPa, ideally sitting at around 0.85 kPa. As a general rule, most plants grow well at VPDs of between 0.8 and 0.95 kPa.[citation needed]
In ecology, it is the difference between the actual water vapour pressure and the saturation water vapour pressure at a particular temperature. Unlike relative humidity, vapour-pressure deficit has a simple nearly straight-line relationship to the rate of evapotranspiration and other measures of evaporation.
Climate
VPD can be a limiting factor in plant growth. Climate change is predicted to increase the importance of VPD in plant growth, and will further limit growth rates across ecosystems