Help please- these girls are 5 weeks into flower

I’m growing 3 fem Moby Dick in 5 gallon bags in a grow tent. Last watering was plain water on Tuesday Oct 20. Every other time it’s :organic bio bizz grow 4ml per gallon , bio bizz bloom 8ml, cal mag 5ml Fulpower 5ml. Ph is ok.

I’m scared to lose everything. I have fish emulsion but question how much to use and when. It took 6 days for them to dry out so I could water last week.

What should I do? All comments are appreciated!

It could be a nutrient lockout due to overfertilization

The experts can help you with your topic @GreenLife @herr_gruen @Demonrage75

Thank you very much for the mention @loveweed and the trust placed in me as an expert, but I really don’t feel like one. :folded_hands:t3::slightly_smiling_face:

What does your watering routine look like? With your 18 or 20-liter pot, easily 4-6 liters fit into the substrate per watering. It can then take about 6 days until they are dry enough to water again. If you’re watering less, you definitely owe them water.

Since you are fertilizing organically, it usually means never watering without fertilizer. It’s rarely too much. In my experience, a common cause with Biobizz fertilizer is that when watering according to the given schedule, they are usually underfed. Hence your nitrogen deficiency. With stable water and good carbonate hardness, you can easily water at 150% of the schedule. However, I don’t know your water’s values. And always at regular intervals so that your substrate doesn’t get too dry and the soil life dies off.

In BW5 you still have a way to go, but it probably won’t be a total loss. You actually only give Fishmix during the vegetative stage, then replace it with Grow from flowering onwards. You never give both together, it’s either/or. Whether it makes sense to swap the two again now, I unfortunately can’t say.

The order when mixing the nutrient solution also plays a role. Always Calmag first if needed, then fertilizer, then additives, and lastly check pH.

I would now simply focus on regular watering, keep running the schedule at 100% for now, as they are rather stressed at the moment and it might be too much otherwise. But most importantly, don’t drive yourself crazy. The leaves that are yellow or dead now won’t change anyway. What’s important now are the buds.

Hope I was able to help you out a little bit.

Cheers :victory_hand:t3:

Give us some info about your grow.

Light, wattage, distance.
Watering, how much and how often.
Nutrient amount and how often.
CalMag?
Flowering time so far and how much longer.
Fan, where placed.
Temperature, humidity

The more we know, the better we can find the problem.

I’m currently still out, I’ll take a look later and think about how I can help you.

Keep your chin up, it’ll still turn out fine, I’ve harvested plants that looked way worse.

I’m no expert, but I have a comparison to make.

Your plant is mainly suffering from light or heat stress (Light Burn) strongly combined with a nutrient lockout (Nutrient Lockout) almost certainly caused by a pH imbalance in the substrate in this week 5 of flowering. In this critical phase, the demand for phosphorus and potassium is at its peak, and any environmental or root imbalance quickly manifests in the upper foliage.Symptom analysis in the image1. “Taco” shaped leaves (edges curling up): This symptom (visible on the highest tips of the SCROG net) is the typical physical response to light or heat stress. The leaves fold to reduce the surface area exposed to thermal radiation from

Well, you nailed one my issues right away. I’m in South Florida and boy, we have had some real hot weather. I have a 3x3 tent with a 300 Mars hydro led light, with a VIVOSUN controller, humidifier, 6” exhaust fan and a circulating fan. It is located in our Florida room which is not well insulated and even though the air conditioner is running 24/7 it is about 80degrees in the room. The tent averages about 83 F. I’ve tried everything to bring down temperature. Now I’m looking forward to our cooler days, so it will be able to avoid heat stress.

My current question is I’ve gotten a lot of great advice and I do want to give it more nitrogen or perhaps flush them? I have only given these girls organic nutrients but I do have General Hydroponics FloraGro, (2-1-6) Florabloom (0-5-4) and FloraMicro (5-0-1) nutrients that I understand would result in a more immediate reaction if I chose to use. Should I use one of these guys for more mirror should I increase my organic biobizz grow from 4ml per gallon to ? OR, do I flush? .. z

Hello @Sus welcome.
I see you’re already getting a lot of help. First of all, don’t rush, because you’ll make everything worse. Right now the plant needs you to be gentle. Wait for the others to help you.
Don’t even think about giving it nitrogen. Nitrogen is given during vegetative growth only, and maybe a little in pre-flowering. Once the plant enters flowering, it doesn’t grow leaves or stretch

Please take a picture where I can see the whole plant, so we can see exactly where the yellowing of the leaves starts.
You don’t really have light stress, it’s just the edges of the leaves curling upward and I don’t see a problem with that yet.
Looking at the newer leaves, they actually look healthy, which should rule out a lockout, but I’d like a better picture for that.
The leaf curling up like that reminds me of my plants this summer—the temperature was brutal and I couldn’t get a handle on it. Now I’d be interested to know what your humidity is compared to the temperatures. If the humidity doesn’t match the temperature, the plant can’t absorb and transpire enough water, which could explain your plant’s appearance.

Take a good picture where we can see the entire plant and tell me what the humidity is, then we’ll take it from there.