Apparently something happened and one of my blumats stopped working so I’m trying to save one of my plants that hasn’t been watered in who knows how long. Time to invest in some moisture meters.
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A soil sensor is a great thing; they will also be used again by me after repotting
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had to replace a carrot as well. at first i thought i may have hooked it up wrong but come to find out 1 carrot was faulty. just glad have 3 per bed so the other two kinda saved me from disaster
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It’s definitely possible that’s what’s happening on my end. I originally bought a set up with 5 rings and carrots then added a set after. The one giving me an issue is the one added after. Not the end of the world I’ll hand water the rest of the way and worry about it in between grows. Thinking of going back to 5 pots anyway so it is what it is. If need be I’ll call their customer service since they are awesome.
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yeah there customer service is top notch and sent me a carrot free of charge. i really dig the whole system but i do weekly checks and purge lines just in case now lol
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Nothing better than actually getting help when you need it. Say a lot about the company!
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agreed man between the ease of getting a replacement as well as the fast email responses that company def cares about customer service
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Grüße dich @3xt3nd3d
In pictures 1 and 4, and also on the rest, your plant is currently trying to tell you that something isn’t quite right in its root area. The damage pattern (yellow edges, brown tips, and a light green lightening of the new leaves) indicates a nascent imbalance.
Here is the analysis of the symptoms:
1. Possible Causes;
pH-value problems, which you have already identified, is the main suspect
If the pH value of the soil or irrigation water is too high or too low, the plant can no longer absorb certain nutrients (such as magnesium or iron), even if they are present. This leads to the light discolorations between the leaf veins (interveinal chlorosis).
- Beginning Potassium Deficiency: The brown, “burnt” tips and edges on the outer leaves are often a sign that the plant is not getting enough potassium or that its transport is disrupted.
- Nutrient Burn (Nutrient Burn): If you have recently fertilized heavily, the brown tips could also indicate over-fertilization. The plant “sweats out” excess salts at the leaf edges, which burns the tissue.
- Watering Behavior: The soil looks very wet and compact in the photos. If the roots don’t get enough oxygen (waterlogging), they can no longer process nutrients.
2. What you can do now
To solve the problem, you should proceed in a structured manner:
Continue to check the pH value! Measure the pH value of your irrigation water. Target value for soil: 6.2 to 6.8. Make sure that nutrient uptake functions again.
Watering break!
Let the top 2-3 cm of the soil dry out well before watering again. Prevents root rot and improves oxygen supply.
Check fertilizer!
If you fertilize a lot: Reduce the dose by 50%. If you don’t fertilize at all: Carefully apply a complete fertilizer.
The plants are still at a stage where they can fully recover.
The affected leaf areas will not turn green again, but the new growth should appear in a rich, uniform green.
Paule wishes you much success and fun growing.
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Inspected my reservoir today and found a decent amount of bio-film stuck to the sides and floating in the water. Broke it down and washed with diluted bleach (10%). While I was doing all of that I removed some overgrown cover crop and got some pics.
smallest plant in the back left is almost ripe mainly cloudy but still less than 75%, so some time to go. We are at day 64 of what’s supposed to be 65 days total for the whole back row and the little one is weeks ahead of the rest. Still not pleased with this grow but it’s definitely better than the last run. Hopefully next run with blueberry pancakes will be back to normal as I’m busting out the trellis again and probably going back to 5 pots. I’ve been spoiled with smooth runs for the last few years, I was due for this. Can’t wait to harvest this run and move on from the issues I’m having. Hope everyone is having a great day and a happy grow.
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hey of your still getting that inhouse pack itll be half off on the 19th as well as 10% off site wide on nasc (minimum) and youll get i think cosmic kush, bubba kush, and grimm mints as part as the breeder bundle freebie. probably a 3 pk of each if i was to guess and breeders are barneys, brothers grimm, and inhouse
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sucks your having some issues but plants do look overall really nice dude but i totally get the headache part lol and glad you mentioned the res buildup it lets me know not to forget about mine lol
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I’m thinking of getting an air stone and or an agitator. I’ve read that can keep things cleaner for longer.
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Hell yeah! That’s a killer deal!!
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think ill grab an air stone as well probably a good idea lol
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Depending on what is in your res an air stone can sometimes cause gradual ph drifts so keep an eye out for that
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Just plain tap water. It is a pH of almost 9 and never gave me an issue. It’s filtered of chlorine though.
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Its strange that you are getting a film at all in that case. For me it’s when I add silica that I have a real problem with it.
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First of all, thank you very much for the detailed responses, you’re a pro, really, thank you.
For now, I adjusted the pH to 6 in the last watering, I’ll raise it more next time, and I gave a single watering with “a
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Hey Growmies, today I’m also showing my Cookies OG clones here.
Flower Day 44!
This beautiful delicate variety of colors.
That looks like a first-class run!
For flower day 44 (7th week), my Cookies OG are looking excellent. Since I cultivate on Living Soil, that probably explains the healthy resin coating and natural color development.
Why I can be absolutely satisfied:
Trichome Production:
The close-ups show an extremely dense layer of trichomes. For day 44, the “frost” level is above average.
Structure:
The buds are compact and well-formed. The Cookies genetics often tend towards smaller, but rock-hard “golf ball” buds – but mine also look like they have decent volume. 
The “Autumn” (Fade):
The leaves are starting to lighten (yellowing). This is absolutely desired in week 7, as the plant begins to redirect stored nutrients from the leaves into flower production. In Living Soil, this transition often happens very gently and aesthetically.
And this time, more delicate than with their mother. 
What I’m paying attention to now;
Maturity:
The pistils (stigmas) are largely brown and receding. This is a sign that they are entering the final phase.
Trichome Check:
Soon I’ll be looking through a microscope to get a better view of the heads. Currently, they seem mostly milky.
But;
Cookies OG often benefits from a small proportion of amber trichomes for the typical “heavy” feeling.
Since the plants have everything they need, there will be no more experiments with additives.
Keeping the soil only slightly moist.
I think the Cookies could be ready for harvest in 10 to 14 days. A few days earlier than their mom.
The humidity values (44% under light - 52% dark phase) are absolutely in the “sweet spot” for week 7, to avoid mold (Botrytis) without stressing the plant with air that is too dry.
A gratifying run! 
I’m considering continuing the Growlog and including the production of Temple Balls.
The documentation of the transformation from sandy 150µm sift to shiny Temple Ball is certainly another highlight, because it shows true craftsmanship.
Have fun growing wishes you Pflanzenpaule
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Holy shit, looks amazing man!
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