Hey @Juicer with that issue of nuits to stop the vertical growth Iv never heard of but do belive it’s out there! But in the case when you’ve got most your canopy level and 2 or 3 are above the rest and either do nothing which- not good idea- or like @Stoney1BudTokie has done those little red P holders lst kind of super crop n a little, but I would prefer not to mess with the genetics of the girl and deal with any issues as arrive, but this way could be your sweet spot using the element to halt the vertical growth! Well good luck pal
2 Likes
You can super-crop in flower, if you were wondering… Damn, they’re quite close yes. If you can possibly upload a top shot from above I maybe have an idea that could help a little… I’ll need to try & draw it to try and explain what I would have done
It’s been removed. We should talk with community moderators about getting video file uploading on the site.
@Ratch33 heres some updated photos from today. Had some LST clips and was able to bend the tops without stressing her too much.
4 Likes
@Ratch33 one addition to my feeding i want to add and try is Mammoth P, fron what i read other than the beneficial michoraeza, is the faster breakdown of nutrients allowing the plants to uptake more nutrients which translates to the common potassium toxicity issue that arises with coco.
3 Likes
@Stoney1BudTokie got to say, love your style this grow looks amazing, the amount of bud sites stacking up they’re like going to be done innormus colas by the looks 
nice one
3 Likes
Wait you said you want Mammoth P though it could contribute to K toxicity? I think I read it wrong 
Its gonna allow the plant to uptake more nutrients in a snapshot
1 Like
I feel like you mentioned this somewhere but are you growing in straight Canna coco? No amendments? Thinking about this for next grow
Yep straight coco in 2 gallon square pots. Using the Canna Coco nutrient line. I veg in 1 gallon squates tuen transplant into the 2 for flowering
1 Like
Hey @Stoney1BudTokie buddy, bro those top shots are looking really dope!! Doing super well!! How’s she doing now? 
1 Like
Took these today, have a 4x8 c9ming in thats 10 inches taller to give those bids some space from the light
4 Likes
Looking very fresh Mr!! I’m not seeing any bleaching on those top bud sites. You have a proper lightning fixture
Damn, they’re looking juicy! Keep up the awesome work Growmie 
1 Like
Got a fan blowing over the top to keep the heat away, only th8ng i can think of thats saving me. Also dimmed rhe light down to 75 percent. Just want this bigger tent to get in lol.
1 Like
Flowering Stage
- Plants respond okay to supercropping early in the flowering stage
- The later in the flowering stage, the more stress plant gets by supercropping, and the more you increase the chance of reducing yields
- Breaking a branch in the flowering stage after buds start forming may reduce the size of buds produced on that branch
- Especially avoid supercropping after buds start forming
Summary: Avoid supercropping in the flowering stage unless absolutely necessary (for example the plant is going to hit the grow light).
You don’t always need to supercrop your tall cannabis plants. Sometimes it’s okay to allow some of your plants to get taller than the rest. If you have just one or two tall plants, you can often get away with placing them on the outside edges so they’re as far away from the grow light as possible. The outer spots get less light than the plants in the middle. As long as the plant is not growing into the hot lights and isn’t showing much light stress, it’s okay if it’s tall.
You can sometimes move tall plants to the edge instead of having to supercrop them.
But if you have plants that are approaching the grow light and you cannot move the light, you likely will need to supercrop.
2.) Bend Stems (Squeeze, Wiggle, and Bend)
The idea is to damage the inner tissue of the plant without causing damage to the outside ‘skin.’ This makes the stem easy to bend in the direction that you want it to grow.
- Grab the stem and squeeze – You’re trying to crush the stem where you want it to bend, but without damaging the outside. Squeeze the stem at the bend point and apply steady pressure between your thumb and forefinger. This helps “loosen” the joint you are about to make. If you have an extremely woody or thick branch, you may need to wrap a dish towel around the desired bend and use pliers for the “squeeze” part. Squeezing while wiggling is the best way to get a hard stem to bend without breaking.
- Wiggle the stem at the joint – Wiggle the stem between your fingers slowly back and forth for several seconds while maintaining pressure, to loosen it up where you want it to bend. You will be able to tell if the inside of the joint feels “crushed” or loose. You’re essentially breaking up the inside of the stem.
- Try to bend slowly – Try to bend the stem in the direction towards the desired final position. The stem should feel pliable and loose at the joint you just made. If it feels like the stem is resisting, stop and do more squeezing and rocking back and forth to further loosen up the joint.
- Secure in place – Use plant twist tie to secure the stem in place or it will have turned up to the light within just a day or two. However, if the stems seems limp and hanging, leave it alone for the first day and only tie it down if it seems like it’s turning back up.
1 Like
Trying to avoid super cropping those other ones as much as possible
OMG!! So jealous!! lol, I also want a 2nd tent 
Very nice, where did you buy?
1 Like
Amazon its a cool grows tent $160 i think
2 Likes