Something completely new, free seeds of an exclusive cross.
Stable so far and I hope for a beautiful result.
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Checking it 
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The mulch layer protects the soil from drying out (due to lamp and wind), thus keeping the soil moist longer in the upper area.
Additionally, it slowly decomposes and thus returns nutrients like nitrogen and silicates to the soil.
For living soils, an important aspect to keep the climate in the pot stable.
@Pflanzenpaul knows much more about that.
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I see, that’s really cool, I have to say 
Lately, I’ve always used (maybe someone will laugh now) a layer of Seramis clay pebbles for
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Very well observed!
With Bio Bizz soil, you only have fungus gnat problems.
A bag of All Mix was pure horror.
I’ve never had such vermin as there, so I threw away the rest of the soil.
After 3-4 weeks, I was vacuuming for 4 days straight just to get the dead critters out.
Go through Globus Baumarkt with open eyes where these pallets are.
Those are always the flies too.
With persistent watering with nematodes and predatory mites, you can get it under control.
But only if the nematodes are delivered below 20 degrees.
Above 23 degrees, they arrive dead.
For the next run, I’ll be starting with Plagron Bio Light Mix.
Just different soil, different fertilizer, but still Super Soil with Bio Tabs.
The last cycles with longer-used living Soil and continuously treated with nematodes and predatory mites prevented any more gnat plagues!
Also a way to not give pests a chance to lay eggs in the soil with expanded clay.
Best regards from Pflanzenpaule
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Greetings @Pflanzenpaul
Thanks for your extensive feedback, awesome. Yes, I used the Light Bio Mix for 2 Grows, but I managed it by directly interrupting the brought-in larval cycle with sticky traps and the stones. I can imagine how bad the All Mix must be then 
.
As I said, I’m now also using a different cultivation
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Hemp mulch, small animal bedding, and rice hulls as mulch only make sense in purely organic cultivation where the soil life = microorganisms and symbiotic fungi feed the plant.
The mulch keeps the moisture more stable, longer in the soil, and optimally up to the mulch.
Directly underneath, microorganisms form a community with fungi that decompose the mulch, and from this, the bacteria feed.
Optionally, worms also feed the plant with their castings.
In return, the plant gives substances like sugar to the soil bacteria.
All of this runs smoothly with consistently moist soil.
Too wet - anaerobic bacteria form which unbalance the soil life.
Too dry, bacteria stop their work, even to the point that it dies off.
Living Super Soil.
But it requires practice and a feel for watering.
The end product, however, is amazing.
With this type of cultivation, Neem oil and other pest control agents are poison for the soil life.
Then only nematodes and predatory mites.
With mineral fertilization, this is not necessary.
Have a good evening.
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Thanks friend.
You can’t really explain it better in writing.
Practice, that’s the keyword. It’ll get there.
Tomorrow at noon, before lights out, there’ll be something again for the moist soil.
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Hammer detailed answer and super informative, thank you very much for that 
The knowledge of some like you here is worth gold.
I really appreciate it and enjoy the conversation all Around Planting
gg Good Grow
PS: what about my Seramis clay stones?
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A very honest answer from me?
As soil moisture retention. No
To keep away fungus gnats. No
But for the eye, Beautiful.
I’ll explain the No.
You use these Air Root pots.
Although you’ve made egg-laying more difficult because nothing easily gets into the soil from the top.
But for example, fungus gnats are clever.
They walk into the holes on the sides, into the soil.
The Seramis = expanded clay offers no food for soil life.
I find that these Air Root pots are better for mineral cultivation.
The soil dries faster, which protects somewhat better against overwatering. Air pruning prevents root bound.
Especially with Super Soil, it dries too fast.
But it’s also feasible if you can maintain the moisture peak.
I use expanded clay (Blähton) to mix into the soil for a loose structure and it provides a habitat for bacteria. It just doesn’t serve as food.
I am referring purely to Living Soil treated with solid fertilizers and activated by soil life = fungi and bacteria.
Flo Organic.
There are also, for example, Bio Tabs NL with which you can also make your Super Soil perform.
With these, no pH adjustment is necessary.
Bio Bizz fertilizers are also based on organic matter, and with Microbe, you constantly introduce new microorganisms with watering.
Here, the pH must be adjusted.
For me, this is an imitation but not a real Super Soil.
Then, have a great start to the day
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Hey ,
Thanks again for the feedback.
I’m currently still fertilizing organically, but I had planned to switch to mineral in the next Grows.
I have ABSOLUTELY NO fungus gnats anymore since the new good soil. That’s why I left out the stones this time.
Ultimately you are right, visually it looked good, but its utility factor was only small.
Soil currently
So, would the cannabis mulch also make sense here then?
I see I’m alone with these Air Pots 
.
Thank you, I still have a lot to learn
My Ganja tastes amazing, hits super super deep, I haven’t quite managed the quantity yet, I’m working on that.
Regards SmartPlants
Benji
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The important thing is quality first, and quantity comes with time and practice.
So, the pictures are from a previous grow?
To increase the yield, I would suggest you fertilize a little less, as I took a closer look at the plants in the picture.
Overall, the plants appear strong and well-developed, but show initial slight “stress symptoms.”
Yellow/burnt leaf tips, slight over-fertilization / nutrient burn.
Especially on the front left plant, as well as the back right, distinctly lightened and yellowish dying leaf tips are visible. This usually indicates a slightly too high nutrient concentration (EC value) or a slight accumulation of salts in the substrate.
And yes, one can also mean too well with organic fertilization.
Reddish/purplish leaf stalks:
Several leaf stalks show a dark, reddish coloration. While this can be genetically determined, it often also occurs due to temperature differences (cool nights), slightly increased light intensity, or reduced phosphorus/magnesium uptake. The latter again points to a bit too much nitrogen = nitrogen toxicity, which can hinder the uptake of phosphorus/magnesium.
Slight Leaf Curling (watering behavior / transpiration):
Some of the leaves hang slightly heavily downwards or curl slightly at the edges, which often indicates a slightly too moist substrate or slightly high humidity/low air circulation in the lower tent area.
These are a few minor things to pay attention to and counteract in the further course of the grow.
Too much stress for too long will reduce the quantity.
But getting the plants finished is already a huge success.
Not everyone manages it.
The rest is learning and will eventually become routine.
The soil would make sense, with mulch if you use its organic components, to use it purely organically.
Fertilizing mineraly would destroy the organic components of the soil over time, which wouldn’t be tragic because the mineral fertilizer supplies the plant comprehensively anyway. But again, here ----- Less is more.
For small plants, a maximum of 1/3 of the fertilizer manufacturer’s recommendation, and from growth onwards, a maximum of half of the recommendations initially.
After that, you can add a little more according to your feel and the plant’s appearance.
Most manufacturer recommendations are exaggeratedly high and only work if everything else is optimal. That is, climate values and light output.
Light dimmed too high, the lamp too close, also leads to stress.
No - you’re not alone with the Air Root Pods. I also have a 20 l and a 1 l Pod here.
But they’re just sitting around. I once used the 20 l Pod for an autoflower, and that run was actually great.
However, I’m now doing more with fabric pots. Regards
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Evening @Pflanzenpaul
Wow, it’s impressive what a trained eye can see and say from a picture. You’ve practically undressed me Grow-wise regarding my past grow .
So. Everything you say is correct. I’m already using a lower fertilizer schedule in the current grow, I’ve already understood that.
The plant in the front right is an ‘Apple Drops’.
That was a test from a seed I took from a flower. There was 1 seed per 10g, and normally I throw them away, but this one looked so incredibly good that I thought, ‘come on, I’ll just try it.’ It worked. Apple Drops, for me, is also a rarer strain about which I found little online. Throughout the entire grow, it was completely different from all 3 other plants and experienced temperature differences of up to 12° in the mid to late flowering phase.
You’re also right about the humidity. Both air humidity and with the substrate. I also have both under better control in the current grow 
@KilliczGe sorry Bro that we’ve now flooded your thread , but it’s cool what a knowledge exchange arose from posting a Growlog.
@Pflanzenpaul many thanks, that was very cool and instructive and I’m motivated for better growing.
Regards, have a nice evening everyone.
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I have no problem with that, keep it up. 
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She seems to be slowly starting to stretch.
So far, I’ve left everything as it was. But I somehow constantly want to cut something off.
But no, I’ll let them grow as they please.
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Looks great
I understand you, you immediately want to start training
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Not training now, rather the biggest fan leaves, but they are growing so beautifully, I’ll just let them become a Christmas tree 
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Sorry, for me, cutting/tying techniques are directly training 
Well then, Canna Christmas?
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