Please hel, leaves just started drooping. but only the nottom leaves. i stopped watering it, in case of over watering. added more soil to straighten stem out and reach light
Any ideas? Tips?
I’m a new grower too so take this with a grain of salt. Seedling looks tall and lanky to me like its reaching for light. Maybe you need a stronger light source? What are you using?
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right now a 45 LED. i placed them closer a week ago, and they started doing good. Seeds stopped reaching for light and finally halted. I noticed these leaves strated drooping and was thinking it may be due to over watering. my Vipra is arriving tomorrow and extra stem is gettinf buried. But, yes before i had then too far and thqts why it stretched 
caught before it was too late though
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It looks like overwatering. How much water are you feeding them? With a cup should be enough.
You did well by burying part of the stem. You’ll need to get the lights closer, use your hand as a heat measure, if after 5 to 8 sec you get burn, then it’s too close.
Leave the plant to rest until no the soil is close to dry, and then start watering again.
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I pour 5 to 10mL. When I see the top soil dry. Bringing them closer to the lights definitely helped the leaves bloom. My Vipra LED is coming tomorrow whoo! plamlnts will get exaxt light they need. My Mcgeyver rig is helping them for now…I started to stick a toothpick into the soil to feel if the inside is still wet though.
That’s a good technique although later you can hit a root and you don’t want that.
I use a finger. It’s normal that the soil on top is dry, it’s the first thing that will get dry, so don’t take that as a sign to water.
thanks! yes, that has been my fear of stabbing a root. Thank you for clarifying, i see the top real dry and i woukd freak
If you brought the light closer and they stopped reaching and instead dropped, I would say the light is now too close. Keep adjusting. You should see a difference in 4 hours. If they don’t lift back up then I would guess overwatering.
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A few of my first batch died, including this one. Omce i got my LED in, it was too late for her. I have a new batch that are doing great. Nitrogen lvls seem to have leveled out. Now going to need some nutrients. I have a couple whom are already showing the 5 finger sets growing. Which i believe means that its starting the veg stage soon as those fully develop. My first batch has shown some stunted growth. But has recovered, sloqly growing new sets.
Looking good. Pictures are better when you take them out from under the grow light
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Fully agree! I just dont want to be moving them so much. But, I’ll grab some better pictures on their next photo shoot. There is a lot of going on, that I’ve been maintaining
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Here you go! Love criticism. I know a few Nitrogen burn, nitrogen lvls, seem to be going down based off the new leaves. I can use all tge help and tips I can get
I wouldn’t use anymore nutes for a few waterings. If you are still in the Fox Farm Potting mix you don’t really need any additional nutes. Less is more. Be careful not to over water; about .2 l per plant. When they return to normal the only thing I would give them right now is 0-1-1 NPK. I use Bio Root from General Organics. This will focus on root development, cell growth, and stem & stalk structure. You do not need any nitrogen. In fact, 0-1-1 is all I used for the first 4 weeks. I only used 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. You can add some White Widow Mycorrhizae to help with root development. That is really the focus right now. Once they reach 4 weeks old or you see the first 5-7 segmented leaves they are now adults and should be transplanted into 3 gallon pots. The fifth week is the first week of veg and now you should begin using the nutrients according the instructions on your choice of nutes. Trying to fertilize them now will only stunt their growth because they are infants and cannot handle it. They look pretty good other than the nitrogen burn, but that will go away. Just give them plain water until their normal color returns. This is my Jack Herer at five weeks old.
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Love it man! Exactly what i needed to hear. Saved Bio Root in my cart til i head out to the store. Your plant is beautiful. Cant wait for mine haha. Let me recap, only plain water til normal colors return. Then apply the Bio root 0-1-1 Til they’re adults. Once, they hit their adult stage, then apply nutrients accordingly. usually 5 th but when 5 to 7 segments appear.
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Yes sir that is correct. I would add the Mycorrhizae also. Very good for Root development
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Sweet! Thanks for all that info. I was getting worried and was hoping I didnt need more nutrients too soon. 
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Check out the grow. been keepinh eyes on the nutrients and oh levels. 6.3 to 6.5 is what im ph’ing at
I was just checking out the pics in this last post. It appears the soil is mostly coco/peat? I also see a lot of yellowing along the edges of the leaves, which are also curling or clawing. I also noticed the cotyledon on one of your seedlings is browning, which is an indication to me that the plant is surviving off of the cotyledons. And this somewhat confirms my hunch (correct me if I am wrong) that the soil is not a potting mix and therefore, the plants are indicating an nutrient deficiency.
Regarding the seedling, you have time for correction since the purpose of the cotyledons are to provide food until the roots can reach other nutrients. I would start giving the seedling the 0-1-1 npk @ (1 tsp per gallon of water) until it gets big enough to transplant. After two weeks you can increase the 0-1-1 to (2 tsp per gallon) of water. When you transplant put the seedling in a good potting mix.
Regarding the older plants with the yellowing leaves that are curling and clawing, you should feed them also until you can transplant them into a good potting mix. A good npk ratio for adult plants is 3-1-2. IF, you are already giving them nutrients then I would say that perhaps you have over done it and if that is the case, stop feeding them and start watering them with pure water, properly ph’d, until they are completely healed.
Yes, it has too much nutes in the potting soil. I noticed all the clawing and yellowing and concluding that it is nute/nitrogen burn. I finally got my Dr bush potting soil, along with some 3-4-3 dry ammendments. I was able to find 1-1-1, and fox farm Grow Big 6-4-4. I may have found a place that had 0-0-1. and 0-1-1. I noticed this nute burn and just been water them at 6.3 - 6.5 Ph. It is a very hot potting mix, so nute burn was my assumption. i did notice the cotlyedons dying off so quickly. I havent used the Fox farm. but did apply the 3-4-3. thinking thats what the plant was searching for by surviving off the cotlyedons. But, applied it with the Ph’d water. thats when the leaves started to get darker and tips and edges started to yellow. I do want to just let these finish and use my Dr Bush’s potting soil and the 3-4-3. Am I wrong about the nute burn? and should apply more. If theure feeding off the cotlyedons, like you said, means that their searching for nutrients? I do have a small batch of seedlings that are looking way better, leaves and cotlyedons are a pretty green. In the past month , The older plants have been getting a Ph’d water of 6.3 - 6. When they first started the older plants were getting a water Ph’d at 6.8 - 7, thats when the cotlyedons were starting to dye off. Which would explain a lot, based off what you explained. that level of Ph wasnt letting the plants absorv certain nutrients, so they fed off the Cots. once corrected all other leaves were looking really well. Then I think herrs went it wen belly up. Its a very hot soil mix, I read that I could flush it, and basically start all over with adding nutrients. this way I could keep better track on what was going in. I performed a flush, and well, that allowed the plant to absorb all the nutrients at the same time. Throughout the day, leaves were getting dsrker, yellower, more bronze, etc, etc. I was like Holy Sh*! And been giving them nothing but water ever since. before that flush they were doing really could, but new leaves were grower really dark, like nitrogen overdose. Sorry, if my response if all over the place. As i was respondong back to your message, my memory kicked in on what couldve happened as I was kicing around your response in my head and replying at the sme time. Ive used what I could afford. At thebsame time slowly saving and buying my right equioment at the same time. I found this Organic Potting soil, read all the ingredients and it had everything in it. Im assuming it has waaaaaay too much nutrients now. Even has bat guano, and other alfa/bone meals.
I dont think you would get nutrient burn from the soil. That is likely to happen from fertilizer, which I believe you mentioned that you applied. As long as your plants are in a good potting mix, you really dont need to apply fertilizer.
There are macronutrients: Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium/Potash (NPK, respectively). Then there are micronutrients such as calcium, magnesium, manganese, boron, iron, molybdenum, etc.
There are fertilizers and supplements. Fertilizers are represented in whole numbers (3-2-1:npk). Supplements are represented in decimal (.03-.02-.01).
If you are using a good potting mix with guano, worm castings, fish, etc., you have all the nitrogen you need. I know you get phosphorus from bone meal and probably other things and potassium/potash is from ashes out of a campfire and probably other things. A good potting mix will supply a common house plant with enough nutrients for up to 6 months. Therefore, if you pot up from say a party cup to a 2 gallon, to a seven gallon you would only need to supply micronutrients and or perhaps phosphorus and potassium later on in the flowering stage for…well…flowering.
The most common deficiencies are going to be those micronutrients such as calcium and magnesium. So if you are using a good potting mix (and this is good advice whenever you are using fertilizers) always start with a 1/4 dose. And I am thinking that if you are in a good potting mix, you probably only really need a supplement to ensure your plants are getting those micronutrients such as boron, etc.
Imo, the reason to use a potting mix is to make life easier. And I think it’s easy for guys to get caught up in the nutrient hype and of course marketing does not help.
I’ve, been looking at a lot of different nutrients available along with their feeding charts and most of them have 10 different bottles they want you to buy and give these ridiculous doses like 2.7 ml of this and 3.1 ml of that. Jesus! I can see that if you are growing hydroponics, but not in soil.
The best ones I think to buy come on a package of three. One is the base (micronutrients), then one is for veg, and one is for flowering. They are to be used together. The easiest ones I think to use is Fox Farms trio, and Success Nutrients: Micro, Trees, and Flowers.
So, if you used the fertilizer and the plants are now suffering just water with pure water until they are better and then let your potting mix do its job.
For the seedling, the 0-1-1 I mentioned is only 1% phosphorus, and 1% potash. It is from General Organics and it’s called Bio Root. Notice there is no nitrogen. The focus here is on root development and that is what this product is designed for. This is also the time I apply White Widow Endo-Mycorrhizae. This is not a fertilizer. Just good bacteria for root development for water and nutrient uptake for later on at 4 weeks.
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