Quote : " It doesn’t look bad ! " 
Hahaha - very modest !
Quite a few people would be happy to know they have something so fine, beautiful, and healthy in their harem. 
Today my Ionbeam S11 arrived. 4 light bars and 30 W total. Full spectrum.
Now the first controller has found a use again. The planned timer—absolute garbage. It gains an hour within 24 hours.
And that was a free bonus item with 2 high-end San Light LEDs that cost real dough. Went straight into the trash just now. Someone should really tell those dimwits!
The cool thing about the light bars running through the controller now is that it has a schedule that runs just like a timer or in a cycle program.
I don’t even need this included mini controller and can’t notice any interfering noise, as described in reviews.
Sunrise mode works too.
Then the propagator can get started soon.
And when it’s not running, I can run the light bars—there’s plenty of extension cable included—vertically on the tent corner poles at the bottom as under-lighting. So lower buds get a bit more sun. Two birds with one stone.
I opened up that little water topic. At a 6 to 1, almost 7 to 1 calcium to magnesium ratio, calcium-magnesium issues keep popping up in Dope Soil, but also in Dope Lite.
Now the K. Asia—and I wanted to switch to flower now, light already at 16 light hours per day—is causing severe problems.
To nudge the imbalance a bit in the right direction, I added 1.2 g of magnesium sulfate per 10 liters of water, and with that slight increase in salts, she’s now showing magnesium deficiency up top and brown leaf serrations on the sides like tips.
Leaf temperature measured, it’s at 25 degrees and perfect. Same for humidity and VPD.
Now away with the treated water and tapped fresh from the tap.
Next watering will be just plain water, and I’ll work 20 g of dolomite lime into the soil surface, which will then be watered in.
Worked wonders last time too. The problem only happens with this pre-mix from Flo - Dope Soil.
I also did a bit of research on that and apparently this knucklehead hasn’t really improved anything about his miserable quality control.
Because ;
Theoretically, Dope Soil pre-mix should already contain calcium magnesium carbonate (dolomite lime) as well as kelp meal. In practice, however, pre-mixed living soil mixes frequently suffer from fluctuations and challenges:
Poor mixing/distribution:
During industrial bagging, heavy mineral components like dolomite lime or rock dust often settle at the bottom during transport. As a result, you get localized excess lime in one bag and far too little in another.
The problem with Dope Lite:
Dope Lite is designed to be extremely nutrient-poor and actually only serves as a filler/seedling layer. Without massive addition of FLO fertilizer or custom amendments, plants starve in it from day 1, growing stunted—that explains the pitiful 15 grams. Which was with the first two auto strains!
Yet it’s advertised as a perfect substrate for autos!
High calcium dominance:
The manufacturer advertises Dope Soil with “extra calcium” for strong lighting. With tap water that already brings 75–90 mg/l calcium, the ratio in the substrate shifts even further toward calcium. This completely blocks the little remaining magnesium (antagonism), causing deficiencies even though lime is “actually” present.
And so he cheerfully continues to rip off customers, but this now results in me taking a different path.
Mixing it all yourself with the right raw ingredients yields good results.
But it really took a toll on my nerves to constantly declare war on deficiencies. I’m curious about Bio Tabs, and I’ll add a decent amount of dolomite lime right away to create a decent balance.
Also after that with the All in One VBX powder fertilizer, I’ll use a different soil. I’m eyeing Canna Terra Plus, lightly pre-fertilized with minerals.
Once again, plenty of carbon material for the worm bin included.
Don’t even know how many meters I ran through the shredder and it’s only the first sheet gone.
Another giant box for a small one.
Fit nicely into the lid recess. 2 side by side each and the magnetic mounts across, keeps everything nicely in shape.
Straight to level 3, that should be the starting dimming level.
Later measure what PPFD reaches the pot stand at a distance of 20 cm.
Could have attached the bars on the inside too, but then all that cable coming out.
Think this is best like this.
And once again a step closer to the goal. Woohoo.
Tomorrow day 6 of curing, I’ll take the Sour Diesel trim out of the cabinet and into the freezer at minus 18 degrees. So I can do some sifting the day after tomorrow.
Now I’ll spark up a Mexican. And shred the rest of the paper.
Greetings from Paule
(Cost-cutting measures at Samsung).
